Novelty yarn of wool and mohair



Aug. 13, 1940. 5, any 2,211,641

NOVELTY YARN 0F WOOL AND MOHAIR Filed July 4, 1939 a I BINDE WOOL R w IINVENTOR.

EDWIN ERY FIG. 3

BY mwhw ATTORNEY S Patented Aug. 13, 1940 UNiTE STATES NOVELTY YARN FWOOL AND MOHAIR Edwin Bry, Elberon, N.

J., assignor to Edwin &

Louis Bry, Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York ApplicationJuly 4, 1939, Serial No. 282,775

4 Claims.

My invention relates to the art of textiles and to a novelty yarn formedof separate threads or strands of mohair and wool, said novelty yarnhaving alternate knops of wool and mohair along its length. Moreparticularly, my invention relates to a yarn comprising a thread orstrand of mohair and a thread or strand of wool twisted together andabout a core thread and having alternate knops of mohair and knops ofwool along its length.

My invention further relates to the gimp or ratine twist having anunusual crinkled effect between said knops of mohair and wool, such gimpor ratine twist being formed by the shrinkage of the thread or strand ofmohair against the thread or strand of wool.

My invention further relates to a novelty yarn formed by twisting athread or strand of mohair and a thread or strand of wool about a corethread and then shrinking the resulting yarn, which shrinking causes thegreater shrinking strand or thread of mohair to force the strand orthread of wool out into arcuate loops to give a crepe effect.

For the sake of brevity, I shall refer to the threads or strands ofmohair and wool as threads of mohair or threads of wool, respectively,said threads consisting of a plurality of twisted fibres of wool ormohair respectively.

My invention further relates to a novelty fabric formed from the noveltyyarn described above and particularly a fabric in which such noveltyyarn comprises all or part of the woof or filler and/or all or part ofthe warp. My yarn may comprise all or part of the fabric.

The desirability of providing textile yarns of attractive anddistinctive appearance has long been recognized. One method of obtainingsuch novelty effect is by the provision of knops on said yarn whichconsist of loops of thread bunched and twisted about specific areas ofthe core of the novelty yarn. Such knops are formed by twisting a threadof suitable yarn about a core thread which is alternately progressed andstopped so that such over-twisted thread alternately bunches in the formof loops about such core thread and then progresses on and twists.

I have provided a novel textile yarn of distinctive appearance whichcomprises a core material which may be of cotton, and twisted about suchcore material, threads of wool and threads of mohair. I form alternateknops composed of threads of mohair and threads of wool in my yarn andfurther twist the threads of wool and threads of mohair in initiallyrelatively close relation so that upon shrinking said yarn, the fastershrinking threads of mohair act to press out the threads of wool in theform of bunching or loose arcuate loops.

Again, in the above twist, because of the greater shrinkage of thethreads of mohair, the mohair knops that are formed are relativelysmall, irregular and shiny, while the wool knops are relatively looseand bunchy.

Further, in addition to the enhancing of the beauty of the yarn by theuse of this particular combination of threads of mohair and threads ofwool in a twist formation, I secure a yarn of definitely superiorproperties. The threads of mohair shrinking far and fast as they do,tend to compress themselves about the threads of wool; the wool being afluifier material absorbs the strain of the shrinking threads of mohairand further acts as a resilient base against which the threads of mohairmay be compressed when the yarnis subject to strain in its actual use.

Alternatively, I may use mohair and wool of such relative count so thatthe mohair is bunched out into arcuate loops by the wool.

My invention therefore lies in the combination of threads of mohair andthreads of wool in a particular twist whereby alternate knops of mohairand wool are spaced by gimp or ratine formed by twisted threads ofmohair and threads of wool. In that ratine because of the respectivedifierential shrinkage between the threads of mohair and the threads ofwool, the ratine has a peculiar crinkled effect formed? by the forcingout by the threads of mohair of the threads of wool into arcuate fluffyloops.

Alternatively, the ratine may have its crinkled eifect produced by theforcing out of the mohair by the wool. which. would be determined by therelation of the count of the mohair to the wool.

It is therefore the object of my invention. to provide a novel. yarncomprising threads of wool and threads of mohair.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novel yarn oftwisted threads of wool and threads of mohair carrying alternate knopsof wool and mohair at spaced intervals thereon.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novel yarn oftwisted threads of wool and threads of mohair in which the wool isformed into arcuate loops'which extend out from the yarn.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novel yarn oftwisted threads of wool and threads of mohair in which the mohair isformed into arcuate loops which extend out from the yarn.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a crinkled yarn formedof twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool in which because of thedifferential in shrinking properties between the threads of mohair andthreads of wool, the wool is formed into arcuate fluffy loops.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a crinkled yarn formedof twisted threads of mohair and threads of wool in which because of thedifferential in shrinking properties between the threads of mohair andthreads of wool, the mohair is formed into arcuate large loops.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn whichcomprises a core thread over which is twisted threads of mohair andthreads of wool.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn whichcomprises a core thread over which is twisted threads of mohair andthreads of wool, said novelty yarn having thereon alternate knops ofmohair and wool.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn whichcomprises a core thread over which is twisted threads of mohair andthreads of wool, said novelty yarn having thereon alternate knops ofmohair and wool, said yarn being bound back with a binder thread.

It is a further object of my invention to provide a novelty yarn ofrelatively increased strength in which threads of wool and threads ofmohair are twisted in such a way that upon shrinkage, the greater shrunkthreads of mohair are tensioned against the more resilient and fiuifythreads of wool.

These and other objects and advantages of my invention will be apparentfrom the following description and the drawing.

In the drawing, Figure 1 represents a side elevation of the yarn of myinvention.

Figure 2 represents an enlarged section of a portion of the yarn shownin Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a diagrammatic showing of the apparatus and methods by whichthe novelty yarn of my invention is formed.

Referring now more specifically to the drawing, in Figure 1, i is thecore thread of my yarn which core may be of cotton or any suitablesimilar material. Twisted about this core thread i is a thread of wool 2and a thread of mohair 3. The thread of wool is formed into a knop 4 andthe thread of mohair is formed into the knop 5 spaced therefrom. Theyarn is bound back with a binder thread 6.

Specifically referring now to Figure 2 in which a section of the noveltyyarn of Figure l is shown in enlarged form, it is to be noted that theknop 5 of mohair is tightly compressed to form a shiny knop ofrelatively small mass while the knop 4 of wool is relatively loose andbunchy.

Between these knops is the ratine or gimp which has a crinkledappearance of particular merit in which it will be noted the thickerthread of wool 2 is forced out into arcuate loops as shown by reason ofthe fact that the thread of mohair twisted therewith has shrunkrelatively farther than the wool and thus pulls the wool into thearcuate form shown. Inasmuch as the threads of wool have a fluffyappearance and the threads of mohair a shiny sleek appearance, the yarnof my invention has a particularly pleasing effect.

It will be noted that when the threads of mohair 3 are subjected tolongitudinal tension they are compressed against the threads of wool 2and inasmuch as the threads of wool 2 are a fluffy and resilientmaterial the threads of mohair are thus given an unusual resilience andresistance to rupture.

In Figure 3 which diagrammatically represents the machine formanufacturing the novelty yarn of my invention, I show a supply of corethread on the spool it which travels between the rollers !l and 52.These rollers alternately move the core thread material I forward andthen arrest its motion so that the knops can be formed. The core threadI travels about the guide roller I 3 and then towards the bobbin Hi.

The wool is supplied from the spool l5 and travels between the rollersand I! which deliver it about the core thread i. The faller bar 28 islocated just above the point where the thread of wool 2 is twisted aboutthe core thread i as set forth. The thread of mohair 3 is supplied fromthe spool 24 and passes between the rollers 56 and i7 and passes beneaththe taller bar 23 at which point it is twisted over the core thread iand the thread of wool 2.

When the core thread i is progressed steadily forward the wool andmohair are twisted about it in an even twist which forms the ratine orgimp of the novelty yarn of my invention. When by means of the rollers Hand 12 the forward movement of the core thread i is stopped, the wooland mohair are still being twisted about the core thread and form knops4 and 5 of wool and mohair respectively.

The novelty yarn so formed of mohair and wool may then be bound downwith a suitable binder thread according to methods which are well knownin this art. One or more binders may be employed if desired.

The faller bars 2!! and 23 prevent the threads of wool and the threadsof mohair from rising up on the core thread and assist in forming thebunched knops.

The yarn thus formed passes through a guide 24 and thence through alifter plate 25 on to the bobbin [4. The twisting is effected by meansof the pulley 2t driven by the belt 21 shown which rotates the bobbin il.

The novelty yarn thus formed is bound in a separate operation, in whichthe binding thread '3 is bound back over the yarn. If desired, thenovelty yarn may also be bound back with still another binder thread.The binder threads secure the components of the novelty yarn againstdisplacement. The binding operation by means of which my novelty yarn isbound down is not shown in the drawing since it is a well knownoperation in the art.

The novelty knop yarn formed as above set forth is then woven into afabric. I may employ this novelty knop yarn as the weft or filler of afabric or I may employ it as the warp or both as warp and weft. Thenovelty yarn may comprise all or part of the fabric. By combining thisnovel yarn with other yarns I may obtain pleasing aesthetic effects infabrics.

-fter the fabric is formed it is washed in an emulsion of soap, sodaash, and warm water. This washing effects a shrinkage in both the wooland mohair. The cotton threads which constitute the core and binderremain substantially unchanged. The threads of mohair shrink relativelysubstantially faster and farther than the threads of wool and thus pullthe threads of wool in the ratine or gimp into the arcuate loops andgive the desirable crinkled or crepe efiect. The mohair knops shrinkinto the tight shiny, irregular form while the wool knops remain arge,irregular, bunchy and fluffy.

I wish to emphasize the new and unexpected effects which result from thecombination of threads of mohair and threads of Wool in the form ofovertwist yarn over and above the pleasing aesthetic results which areso desirable in the art. These new and unexpected results are:

(l) The differential in shrinking properties between the threads ofmohair and the threads of wool results in the threads of mohair forcingthe threads of wool into the form of arcuate loops whereby a desirablecrepe effect is obtained and at the same time whereby the threads ofmohair themselves are given a slight loop effect.

When the reverse relative count of mohair and wool is employed, then thedifferential in shrinking properties between the threads of mohair andthe threads of wool results in the threads of wool forcing the threadsof mohair into the form of arcuate loops whereby a desirable crepeeffect is obtained and at the same time whereby the threads of woolthemselves are given a slight loop eiTect, and

(2) The threads of mohair lying in tensional contact with the resilientthreads of wool are given increased longitudinal strength.

The threads of wool which I may employ may be white or colored by askein dye process or may be formed by a mixture process, or my wool mayconstitute a mixture containingcolored and/or white nubs or knickers.

The threads of mohair may be any desirable type of mohair having ashrinkage relatively much higher than that of wool.

The core or binder material may be of cotton, Worsted, rayon, silk,wool, or mohair or any other suitable material.

Although the core and binder may be varied if desired, it is theparticular combination of threads of wool and threads of mohair in thetwisted formation as shown that produces the novelty yarn of myinvention.

Although I have particularly pointed out the method by means of which Iform a novelty yarn of threads of mohair and threads of wool havingalternate knops of mohair and wool, it is to be understood that I canarrange the knops in other sequences if desired. The provision of spacedknops in my novelty yarn is of utility inasmuch as it provides definiteareas of gimp or ratine in which the differential shrinkage propertiesof the threads of mohair and threads of wool respectively act to givethe crepe effect described.

The apparatus and method whereby I form my novel twist yarn of threadsof mohair and threads of wool have been given by way of example only. Iintend to define my invention and to be limited only by the appendedclaims.

I claim:

1. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread and a thread of mohair and athread of wool twisted over said core thread, and knops of mohair andwool formed in said novelty yarn, said knops of mohair being relativelysmall and shiny, and said knops of wool being relatively large, looseand fluffy.

2. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread and a thread of mohair and athread of wool twisted over said core thread, and alternate knops ofmohair and wool formed in said novelty yarn, said knops of mohair beingrelatively small and shiny, and said knops of wool being relativelylarge, loose and fluffy.

3. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread and a thread of mohair and athread of wool twisted over said core thread, and alternate knops ofmohair and wool formed in said novelty yarn, said knops of mohair beingrelatively small and shiny, and said knops of wool being relativelylarge, loose and flufiy, and a binder thread bound over said twist.

4. A novelty yarn comprising a core thread and a thread of mohair and athread of wool twisted over said core thread, and knops of mohair andwool formed in said novelty yarn, said knops of mohair being relativelysmall and shiny, and said knops of wool being relatively large, looseand fluffy, and a binder thread bound over said twist.

EDWIN BRY.

